Genuine Phaetus nozzle, Plated Copper

When printing with high-temperature filaments like PEEK, PEKK, PEI, PSU, PPSU and other filaments which melt above 300℃ an ordinary brass nozzle will not work properly. The thermal conductivity of the nozzle made of copper alloy is 330W/m.k, and the maximum printing temperature can reach 500℃, it solves the oxidation problem and allows rapid heating and continuous printing together with a long service life of the nozzle.

Fits: Anycubic i3 Mega, Original Prusa i3 MK2, Original Prusa i3 MK2S, Original Prusa i3 MK2.5, Original Prusa i3 MK3, Original Prusa i3 MK3S, Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S, Anycubic i3 Mega S, Anycubic i3 Mega Zero, Anycubic i3 Mega X, BIQU BX and others

Weight	0.005 kg
Option	1.75/0.4mm, 1.75/0.6mm, 1.75/0.8mm
Brand	Phaetus
Material	Plated Copper

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Brendan

5

13 March 2024 - Revi... Read More
13 March 2024 - Review for:PETG-CF – Carbon Fibre Enhanced PETG FilamentInteresting combination of materials. Has the stiffness of ASA but the toughness of PETG. Also like ASA, I found a tendency for the layers to separate if printed with the same temp as PETG. Raising the extruder temperature helped, but then I found blobs forming. A good balance seems to be 242degC with a touch of fan.I'm printing on a Garolite print bed and found I had to bring the bed temp down to 70degC, any hotter and the print is very hard to remove!Also, remember you'll need a steel nozzle, as apparently the CF will ream out your orifice quick smart. The filament is hygroscopic so needs to be dried before use.My suggestion - get PETG printing well, before moving onto this filament.My printing factors currently:Ender3 v2 with MicroSwiss DD Extruder 0.6mm hardened steel MicroSwiss Nozzle Retraction: 1.5mm Garolite Printbed Extruder Temp: 242degC Fan: 5% always on | Bridges: 40% Layer Height: .24mm Perim: 35mm/s Small Perim: 25 mm/s Ext PErim: 20 mm/sREVIEW FOR ASA Blue-GreyPrinted the three parts in the photo attached, individually on an Ender 3 v2 without an enclosure, but with a printed draft shield.Nozzle at 250 degC first layer, then 246 degC for the following layers Bed at 102 degC first layer, then 98 degC for the following layersNote: I have a Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tube. Better temp durability than E3v2 stock Bowden tube.My bed plate is Garolite wet sanded with 1200 grit wet n dry and cleaned between prints with Isopropyl and paper towel.You don't want to be in the same room as the printer when printing ASA - smells bad. Also, once the first layer has finished, keep the door closed to avoid drafts.Print rough smoothed using 240 grit sandpaper, then 1200 wet n dry - wet sanded. ASA sands easily and down to a great finish.Next step is try printing in an enclosure and to try Acetone smoothing :)NOTE: The supplied filament reel's centre-hole is too small for my Ender 3 v2 reel holder. I use a dryer so all good, would be frustrating if you wanted to use a stock holder. EDIT: Must have had my eyes closed - The spool holes have filler plates! Removing these plates and my conundrum was solved :) Read Less
Andrew Jackson

5

I was directed to 3D... Read More
I was directed to 3DEA by a work colleague as I was new to 3D printing and they were right about them. Great quality PLA (and many other types), awesome range of colours and great pricing. I've bought 4 different rolls so far and they have all been great, no clogging and brilliant print quality. Read Less
Greedo Twerp

5

I was looking for a ... Read More
I was looking for a colour similar to the primer red seen on German WW2 heavy vehicles. Wanted to print a 1/4 scale model of a Tiger tank 88mm muzzle brake. Ordered the 3DEA "Brick Red" PLA which is a very good match. Never used prior and pleased to report printed faultlessly once I knocked the temp down to 200 degrees on my Kingroon KP3S. Printed at 0.10mm layer height, no stringing issues at all. Very happy customer. Already planning the next order, highly recommended. Read Less

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Plated Copper V6 RepRap Phaetus Nozzle

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Plated Copper V6 RepRap Phaetus Nozzle

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